Global Textile Networking At Trade Shows
Texworld USA and Kingpins exhibitors and buyers alike track new developments through the supply chain.
Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent
Kingpins, a small show devoted to denim, is organized by Olah Inc., New York City.
Texworld USA teamed with trend service provider Stylesight to present displays that offered trend information to buyers and highlighted exhibitors’ lines.
Texworld USA fiber exhibitors included Phoenix-based Supima and Lenzing AG, Austria. Supima President Jesse W. Curlee noted that farmers are planting more long-staple cotton, most of it in California, New Mexico and Texas. Buhler Quality Yarns Inc., Jefferson Ga.; FesslerUSA, Orwigsburg, Pa.; DesignKnit Inc., Los Angeles; and Vardhman Textiles Ltd., India, were among the Supima customers exhibiting at the show.
Tricia Carey, merchandising manager in Lenzing's New York office, noted that the company is expanding production in Mobile, Ala., by 25 percent for all fibers. At the show, the focus was on Viloft®, ProModal®, Tencel® and Tencel A-100. With its thermal properties, Viloft is going into activewear. Profilen®, Lenzing Plastics' fluorofiber using polytetrafluoroethylene technology and introduced into the United States last October, has abrasion-resistant and low-friction properties. It is going into medical socks and hosiery.
Buhler reports that ultrafine Micro Tencel® yarns are selling exceptionally well for women's tops. They are antibacterial; transport moisture; and have a smooth, silky touch. Buhler is using Outlast® thermal management technology in Supima®/Micro Tencel blends.
FesslerUSA showed fabrics knitted with these yarns. FesslerUSA, a full-package supplier of knitted fabrics and apparel, sells to 150 brands and retailers in the United States, Canada and Europe. In addition to Outlast fabrics, there are performance fabrics knitted of merino wool blended with moisture-wicking polyester and ultrafine fabrics containing MicroModal® and Tencel.
First-time exhibitor Elbana Tex, Egypt, is the only linen yarn spinner in the Middle East. The yarns sell to European and Asian weavers of upholstery, tabletop, and apparel fabrics. They are available natural, boiled or dyed in NM 1 to NM 40. Elbana Tex's New York representative, Barsoumian Enterprises Inc., said the yarns are duty-free and competitively priced, and can be shipped in 18 to 20 days.
Miroglio Textile S.r.l. was the only Italian fabric exhibitor at Texworld USA. Here, the company explained, "We are selling to big players looking for lower prices." All of the fabrics on display were produced in China.
Di-Eagle Textiles Co., Hong Kong, showed novelty silks and blends. Dip dyes on crinkled surfaces, metallic floral jacquards, gold dots printed in circle patterns and silk/cotton voiles were pointed out. Handseltex Industrial Corp., Taiwan, is into eco-friendly and functional knitted fabrics. Sampling fabrics include Supima/linen jersey, French terry with metal, glittery leather looks with a supple touch, fancy bouclés, denim-look knits, and MicroModal/polyester burn-outs.
Fabrics at Manoir of Canada are knitted of organic cotton, wool, viscose and Modal. Some are ultralight and sheer, and others are double-faced. There are French terries with high/low stripes, waffle surfaces, slubs, strias and heathers.
Vardhman showed lightweight double-faced and spaced-dyed shirtings, subtle dobbies, slubbed cottons that have a linen look, and yarn dyes for pants, skirts and shirts. Supima, Modal and Tencel are fibers of choice.
Three California-based knitters that sell to better and contemporary markets use Modal. Laguna Fabrics knits and dyes fabrics in Los Angeles and uses ring-spun yarns. French terry, piqué, tuck stripes, sheers and mock twists are popular. Generally, the hand is soft, and there are touches of Lurex®. Mansfield Textiles Inc. has been in business for 12 years. Fabrics range from legging weights to sheers for tops. Most have a soft, silky touch.
DesignKnit's range includes sheer to heavy novelty and basic knits. A lot have subtle texture. There are nubby surfaces, denim looks, shadow stripes, marbled effects and shine with Lurex. There are ultralight weights for layering. A 49/51-inch tri-blend of linen/Supima/MicroModal weighs in at 4.5 ounces.
At Kingpins, Teresa Zugay, manager, cotton solutions, Global Product Supply Chain, Cotton Incorporated, shows a fabric featuring Cotton Incorporated technology.
Quality, sustainability and performance were in evidence at this show. The focus was on new fabrics that are kind to the environment and provide comfort to the wearer.
Cotton Incorporated, Cary, N.C., featured denim fabrics that transport moisture up to 40-percent faster using TransDRY™ technology and Storm Denim™ breathable wind- and water-repellent treatment. NATURAL STRETCH®, a technique that uses crimped yarns, is another development. Stretch fabrics woven of 100-percent cotton can be dyed at high temperatures and resist chemicals including chlorine. Another development is a dissolvable cotton yarn treated with polyvinyl alcohol. Fabrics shown using this technology have a burn-out look. The amount of open work can be engineered according to the amount of treated yarn used.
At the FiberMax® cotton stand, it was pointed out that Texas, where this extra-long-staple fiber is grown, produces more than 50 percent of the cotton grown in the United States, and of that, more than 60 percent is FiberMax. This top-quality cotton is better suited for ring-spinning and finer-count yarns than other grades. Less water is needed to grow FiberMax, and few, if any, pesticides are used.
At Denimatrix LP, the Guatemala-based denim apparel manufacturing subsidiary of Plains Cotton Cooperative Association, Lubbock, Texas, dark and vintage washes and stretch denims and jeans were among the popular items.
Blue Farm Textile fabrics are designed in Italy and woven in China. Stretch and soft-hand denims of cotton/rayon/Tencel were selling for womenswear, along with double-weave indigo-dyed shirtings. For menswear, one denim is woven with a cotton warp and linen filling yarns.
Basketball-player-turned-menswear designer Kevin Willis, a Blue Farm customer, designs a lifestyle collection for tall men and has a passion for denim. He also shopped at Kurabo Industries Ltd., Japan, whose S-Cube high-stretch denim has a cotton/polyester warp and polyester/cotton/Lycra®/ T400® filling.
Jean Hegedus, global marketing director, bottoms, Invista, holds up a pair of jeans made using a Kingpins exhibitor's fabric that contains Lycra®.
Tavex Corp., Spain, reports business is good despite the high price of cotton. Generally heavy and rigid fabrics are popular, and comfort stretch is selling for men. Exotic blends include Tencel denim for a soft touch. Fashion denim developments show three themes. Artisan has rustic textures with irregular aspects. There are dry and blackened denims in the Industrial group, with super stretch for women and practical stretch for men. Soft, smooth, supple and sustainable fabrics are in the UrbanSwop range.
Invista, Wichita, Kan., presented five stories, showing jeans made using Kingpins exhibitors' fabrics.
One garment in the Color My World collection is made of recycled cotton/Lycra from Tavex. A trouser-styled jean in the Dress for Success group is from Central Fabrics, Hong Kong. Stretch Your Imagination fabrics have at least 30-percent stretch and recovery. A dressy jean in the Black Is Back collection has two-way stretch with T400 and is decorated with Swarovski crystals. Great Performances denims are woven in blends with Cordura® and CoolMax® along with Lycra and T400. Fabrics are soft to the touch, abrasion-resistant and moisture-wicking; and have a lot of stretch.