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Knitting / Apparel

Spring Into Summer

Spring/Summer 2004 trends at Premiere Vision were subtle, sophisticated and elegant.

By Virginia S. Borland, New York CorrespondentSpring Into Summer Spring/Summer 2004 trends at Premiere Vision were subtle, sophisticated and elegant.According to Daniel Faure, chairman of Premiere Vision, it is the balance between the look, touch and functionality of fabrics that brings about newness for the Spring/Summer 2004 season. A lot of exhibitors at the Paris-based salon revisited the 20th century. There were retro prints, faded classics and dusted-off colors. Woven with unique fiber combinations and treated with new applications and finishing treatments, the looks may be from the past, but the touch and performance are modern. Overall, fabrics for the new season are subtle, sophisticated and elegant. Satin is a favorite.The rustic textures of last Spring are giving way to flatter surfaces. Pleats, tucks and creases look as if they have been ironed. Worn and wrinkled fabrics look as if they just came out of the tumble dryer. Twills are ultra-fine and glisten with calendered finishes. Knits are lustrous and slinky. Even thick crochet knits have a ladylike quality.Despite concerns about the economy and war, 31,400 visitors from 106 countries attended the salon. Nearly 25 percent came from outside Europe.

Fabric styles from British companies at Premiere Vision included fine micron wools, mercerized cotton and spun silks, all in neutral aged colors.Knits Are SellingKnitters stands were crowded. At Italy-based Marioboselli Jersey S.p.A., Federico Boselli, president, noted national preferences. Germans are buying earlier, he said. They are looking at heavier fabrics for more structured garments. The Japanese come to us for prints. They wont be ready for Spring until after the ready-to-wear collections. We are sampling clean classics to the Americans. Our best sellers are viscose jerseys they go with the demand for luster and natural fibers.Italy-based knitter Mabu Jersey showed ultra-sheer silk and silk/cotton blends. There were sheer jacquards on net grounds, burn-outs, double-faced double knits and a lot of application treatments. Ribbon appliquin squiggle patterns were popular. Jackytex, Italy, had shiny, washable viscose matte jersey and a non-washable semi-lustrous version. There were fancy metallics in nylon/ polyester/aluminum blends and silk/cotton with or without Lycra® that is clean and sporty.France-based Billon Frs had cotton knits that look like lace curtains. White mesh jacquards recalled the Age of Innocence with heart and stripe patterns. Popcorn stitches, basic ribs, patterned velours and crochet knits were pointed out. The Happy Cha Cha group contains soft-hand crochet knits that are printed in a variety of stripes in unusual color combinations, such as plum with lime.England-based Welbeck Fabrics Ltd. showed a lot of open fishnets and crochets in polyester/elastane. There were small, all-over jacquard patterns, sheer/opaque stripes, burn-outs and camouflage prints.France-based Guigou S.A. showed cotton, linen, silk and viscose, in both knitted and woven fabrics. Rayon matte jersey was a strong seller here, along with lyocell in blends with nylon and elastane. Cobweb sheer open knits of 100-percent linen in two-color abstract patterns and matte/shine effects were selling well also. Silk dupioni with long satin slubs was popular in the woven area.Linen And WoolFor Spring/Summer 2004, many wool weavers have switched to linen, which can be woven on traditional woolen looms. Prince Andrew, the Duke of York, was on hand to help promote British textiles, and toured stands of wool weavers, such as Johnstons of Elgin, Scotland, which was selling a suiting line of 200 to 250 grams per meter (g/m) woven in an intimate blend of linen/cashmere. The fabrics have the look of linen; a soft, dry hand; and crease resistance. There are slubbed suitings with a soft touch in linen/silk/cashmere, as well as shadow stripes and summer tweeds. Some contain Lycra.At De Cathalo S.A., France, there were wrinkle-resistant linen/cotton tweeds woven with ultra-fine twisted yarns; fine Irish linen tie-dyes; cotton/stainless steel poplins that can be crushed and flattened; and Irish linen plain weaves with washed, chintzed or vintage finishes. The Summer line at woolen firm Paylana, Uruguay, includes small, iridescent dobbies in cotton/linen blends and narrow, widely spaced stripes in linen and linen/cotton blends. A lot has been treated with a silk protein finish that provides fabrics with a cool touch and natural stretch. Fabric development is done jointly with Bonotto S.p.A., Italy.Italy-based wool weaver Picchi S.p.A. is doing a lot with finish. Polyurethane is printed on linen/cotton jacquards in blotch and splatter patterns. The effect is subtle. There are washed, washable linen denims, sueded twills, crisp sheers and slubbed bottom weights with polyurethane coatings.Northern Irish linen producer John England Textiles Ltd. said there is continuing interest in the intimate blend of linen/Lycra. Other popular base fabrics are sateens, twills, herringbones in mini and maxi sizes, denim and canvas. All are available in a variety of finishes including washed, calendered and traditional. Fabric weights go from 80 g/m to 600 g/m. There is a lot of novelty in this line. Over-dyed yarn dyes, sheer gauzes with double-woven stripes, mesh with slubs and nubs, puff printing on a variety of weights, devor#44; sparkle prints, laser cut-outs, metallic splatters, and puckers achieved through shrinkage are some of the new developments.Coated fabrics are numerous at Belgium-based Libeco-Lagae S.A. Some are sportswear weights; others are light and crisp with a paper touch. There are mill-washed cross-dyes that have a soft touch, double-printed washed denim linens, delav#44; classic twills and herringbones updated with contrast color stripes, and canvas for both apparel and the home.Linea Tessile Italiana S.p.A., Italy, has linen with an aged look; faded prints; and tonal prints in dark shades of brown, rust or plum. The look is ultra-sophisticated. There are widely spaced abstract prints that have been dusted with metallic, splatter prints, tie-dyes, and bright Oriental florals and dragons that look as if they belong on the sofa. The fabric range includes Shantung, mini-ribs, crinkles, sheer jacquards and mesh.
Linea Tessile Italiana showed linen with an aged look.For SportsSwitzerland-based Schoeller Textil AG has lightened and softened its reflective mesh, which contains a glass fiber. Along with shoes, bags and luggage, it is now selling for outerwear. Other popular fabrics here include 3XDRY®-treated fabrics that transport and repel moisture. They are available in shirt and jacket weights. soft-shell is a two-layered fabric with stretch. There are new transparent fabrics in this line and a revival of metal, especially aluminum.At AGB Textil S.A., Spain, natural fibers are in demand. Cotton, linen and Tencel®, along with viscose for luster and polyester to give a metallic sparkle, are frequently shown blended with Lycra. There are easy-care linen shirtings, pleated stretch cottons, abstract laser-cut patterns on cotton, and soft cotton/Lycra voiles. Vintage looks are achieved through printing on solid fabrics.A lot is still happening with denim. France-based fake leather specialist Griffine Enduction is selling coated fabrics that are indigo-dyed and stone-washed. Santana Textil S.A., Brazil, has fantasy denims. Along with distressed, aged looks, there is denim woven with floating yarns, blotch prints over woven checks, fringed denim and double-faced denim.At UCO Fabrics Inc., Rockingham, N.C., best-sellers are lighter in weight and flatter in structure. There are ribbed denims, fine herringbones, irregular stripes, and denims woven with long slubs and dyed warps. Color is more important.Japan-based Komatsu Seiren Co. Ltd. has introduced a new finishing treatment called Protein Tex®, a powder that comes from scraps of recycled silk kimonos. It is described as having high moisture permeability and minimal dew condensation. This firm showed supple coated fabrics and laminated fabrics that have a thin, invisible membrane to provide weather protection.Vintage PrintsA lot of business was going on in the printed fabrics sector. France-based Chaine et Trame reported that buyers favored prints with an Oriental influence. Chinoiserie with large, bright flowers and dragons; tie-dyes; and batiks are among the favorites. Satin, stretch crinkled fabrics, net and laser cut-outs are some of the best sampling fabrics.Miroglio S.p.A., Italy, is a popular resource with US designers. For Spring 2004, it is showing a line focused on soft dressing. Prints are delicate and pretty. There are widely spaced clusters of flowers, twining vines, Oriental florals, small black-and-white placed designs, abstracts reminiscent of Pucci, paisleys and tie-dyes. Base fabrics include viscose crushed satin, shiny knits, viscose georgette, linen and soft-touch Tencel plain weaves.London-based Liberty Plc is printing on four base cloths: Tana Lawn; Tana jersey; silk crepe de chine; and Liberty Twill. It presented six strong print stories. Florals are in two groups mini twining flowers, and small delicately etched bouquets. Some of the large flowers turn up tonally shaded and superimposed on top of smaller flowers, with striped backgrounds or brightly colored on black for a modern Oriental look. Others are sketchily outlined. A group of abstract prints resembles reflections on a rippling pool; others look like maps or city street plans. There are several groups of conversationals, ranging from mini sports figures or clusters of high-heeled shoes, to larger flapper-era ladies.Luxury And Sophistication
A lot of the same themes turned up in the silk sector. At Mantero Seta S.p.A., Italy, there are large-scale all-over conversational prints taken from 1930s Harpers Bazaar covers. An Oriental group of circles and sunbursts in red, grey and black is printed on silk chiffon and on cotton jacquards. There are romantic flowers in apricot shades on cotton dotted Swiss, crepon and organza. Large flat flowers and dots have a 60s look in acid colors. Flat, 40s-era giant flowers in dusty colors are found on cotton gabardine and canvas. There is a sporty group of batiks and tie-dyes that go with yarn-dyed cottons, and patterned whites that have a lacquer finish.There are black-and-white geometrics, brightly colored flowers and two-color swirling abstracts. Florals with a home furnishings look have been printed on organza. There are dots and ombres on metallic chiffon. New paisleys are printed in calmer colors. There are printed mesh, cotton gabardine, piqund plissRatti has opened a new division that specializes in T-shirt and blouse fabrics. Jersey and voile printed with dot, stripe and paisley patterns are the looks here.French silk specialist Bianchini Ferier is also showing large-scale prints and jacquard patterns. There are huge yellow daffodils, red poppies and Pucci-type geometrics on chiffon, organza, taffeta and satin.
Europe de Tissage (E.D.T.), France, has a colorful group of jacquards in shades of pink, red and orange. Light and lacy knitted fabrics in nylon/acetate/elastane are reminiscent of the Art Nouveau era with elongated floral designs.  Satin, organza, mesh and linen that have a crisp or soft hand are some of the base fabrics at Romain S.A., France. There are silk/hemp Shantung, Shantung organza, iridescent crushed taffeta, and faille.Switzerland-based Weisbrod-Zuerrer AG is showing a lot of novelty in cotton, linen and silk. There are beaded and embroidered sheers, appliquand embroideries on silk tweed, honeycomb patterns with opaque/sheer surfaces, crushed ribs, light quilted patchworks, over-printed burn-outs, fringes, and jacquards woven with stretch yarns to create crinkle effects. Silk/acetate satin jacquards have an upholstery look. Bunched and crunched effects have been pressed down for an engineered pleated look.France-based Bucol, part of the Hermtextile group, has an airy, light honeycomb weave somewhere between chiffon and organza. It is available printed, zig-zag patterned, crinkled and with an aged look. Indienne, a cloth woven in a silk/cotton blend, is a huge floral jacquard with a faded, antique appearance. Laser-cut taffeta, printed cotton poplin with a used look, and silk/polyester with metallic dots of varying sizes are other new fabrics in this line.The Embelliss Division of France-based Solstiss S.A. is styled in New York. For Spring, Embelliss is into sophisticated bohemian ethnic-inspired designs, with loose-thread embroideries, metal and sequins. There are re-embroidered patterns on net, chiffon twisted into floral shapes and applied to lace; stones and glass in butterfly patterns; frayed-edge laces for a deconstructed look; and patchworks of laces.AJM, France, is selling hand-painted and beaded silk. The patterns are enormous and colorful. There was interest among Japanese buyers for kimonos.Premiere Vision, showing fabrics for Fall/Winter 2004-2005, will take place September 17-20.

May 2003