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Spring Ahead

Premiere Vision presents trends for Spring/Summer 2003.

Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent

Premiere VisionBy Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent Spring Ahead Premiere Vision presents new color and fabric trends for Spring/Summer 2003.

 On the eve of Premiere Vision, which will take place February 20 to 23, fabric lines for Spring/Summer 2003 are complete. Weaves, weights, colors, patterns and surface treatments were all determined several months ago.Each season, a committee of leading textile stylists and forecasters pools their knowledge to create a universal range of colors and trends, which will be presented at the salon in Paris. Input comes from members of a European consortium who meet first in their own countries, with a follow-up in Paris to develop unified directions for the season.
Pascaline Wilhelm, Premiere Vision fashion director, has organized the colors and trends into groups, which she has presented to exhibitors as a guideline for the season. Colors are shown in four groups with seven shades in each. White is shown with all ranges. Confidential has soft, slightly grayed pales or tinted neutrals. Champagne, absinthe, putty, pale sky blue, peach tint and vapor gray are the colors here.The second group, called Experimental, is dominated by yellowed greens. Citrine, a fluorescent yellow, and taupe are in this range. It is described as having biological freshness. Sensoriel shades in the third group are warm pink, clay, sandalwood, apricot, orangeade, shrimp and watermelon. Darks in the Intellectuel range are basic shades of navy and red, with plum, teak brown, asphalt gray and cognac.The look of natural fibers, real or imitation, is pointed out for touch and irregularity of weave and surface. Silky or cotton-like crepons, cloques, seersuckers, and wrinkled or creased looks are light, soft and fluid. Crepe, suede and decorated lace are described as tactile affinities.Silky fabrics can be fluid or crunch in pure silk, viscose, acetate, nylon, or blends. Jacquard fabrics with a matte/shine contrast and discreet sheen are some of the suggestions. Suiting fabrics in cotton include patterns borrowed from wool. There are yarn dyes, birds-eye weaves and end-and-ends.Neat, compact sporty fabrics mentioned are denim, diagonal weaves and double cloths. Many contain stretch fibers. They can be woven in cotton, linen or synthetics. Linen/wool blends are also mentioned.Finishes that suggest a subtle, worn look are slightly bleached, barely pigmented or aged. Along with discreet shine, there are iridescent effects, and lacquered and quartz-finished surfaces.Printed patterns can be humorous, exotic, figurative, geometric or abstract. Ikats, tie-dyes and over-dyes are pointed up. Application treatments include burn-outs, cut yarns, embroidery, eyelets and hem stitching on lace, tulle and gauze. The Linen SectorPauline V. Delli-Carpini, North American representative, Masters of Linen, reports that the linen weavers who will exhibit at Premiere Vision expect Spring/Summer 03 to be a good season. With neutral colors and natural looks in fashion, it bodes well for linen, she said. Pure linen is in demand because of the aesthetics, and blends offer performance. Today, there are so many crease-resistant finishes, younger generations dont associate linen with wrinkling.Delli-Carpini said there will be at least the same number of exhibitors in the linen sector as in the past, possibly more if space opens up. There is a substantial wait list.Ornella Bignami, of the Italian firm Elementi Moda and a member of the Premiere Vision Trend Concertation, is trend forecaster for Masters of Linen. She projects three directions linen will take for the season: Silence, Charm and Discipline.The Silence trend shows a range of whites and tinted whites, along with washed neutrals, beige, powder gray and golden washed tones. Voile, crepe and light knits are supple. Heavier weights include canvas and bleached denim. There will be a variety of stripes, dr#44; pleats and laser-cut designs.Colors and fabrics in the Charm group are romantic and sensual. Colors include golden blush, wood rose, hay and leafy greens. Seersucker, sateen, toile and gauze are some of the fabrics mentioned. Yarn-dyed patterns show handkerchief plaids and variegated stripes. Embroideries are in this range. Finishes are smooth. Along with pure linen, there are blends with cotton, viscose and paper.Dark colors and ombres turn up in the Discipline range. Cobalt, caf44; raisin, graphite, ebony, onyx, majolica blue, garnet and black are the shades. Rustic weaves are soft to the touch. There are worn, washed aspects, grill patterns, diagonal stripes, simple geometrics, color blocking, cubist designs and denims.Delli-Carpini will have a library of seasonal linens at the Masters of Linen New York office. Trend presentations will be held for both fashion and home furnishings in March. Trends From Expofil
Sylvie Tastemain, fashion director for Expofil, is another member of the Premiere Vision Trend Concertation. Her Spring/Summer 03 color range for Expofil shows five groups: luminous and fresh whites, slightly bleached sharp acid tones, grays illuminated by aluminum, deep shades and a subtle range of faded mid-tones.Tastemain presents fabrics in four directions. A group called Corrosion features grainy surfaces such as supple, dry-hand crepes. Some have ridges and grooves, veined and wavy patterns. Fabrics in this group are simple, elegant and sometimes rustic. Natural fibers predominate; some are blended with synthetics to produce greater fluidity or luminous effect.There are knitted fabrics with a slightly sandy look, micro-honeycomb patterns, ultra-fine cotton crepons, seersuckers, silk chiffons and tonal stripes in the Corrosion group.According to Tastemain, inspiration for the Transformation group comes from crafts and a need to be thrifty with resources. Cotton is the dominant fiber, although some of the transformations it undergoes change its look. Fiber blends produce fancy yarns and random effects. There are slubs, nubs, color flecks, tweeds and coarse-gauge knits. Designs can be random and blurred. There are tussah silks, basket weaves, torn looks, matte/shine contrasts, appliquand embroideries.The Imitation group, according to Tastemain, is an effort to mimic nature. Flax is the dominant fiber here. Fabrics can have a dry, almost brittle look. Fabric treatments include stone-washing, resin-coating, metallic- or glazed-finishing, discharge- or warp-printing and pearl- or sequin-embellishing.Construction refers to fabrics that have a strict, modern classicism. Tastemain describes them as sophisticated with technical refinement. Surfaces can be blurred or hatched with a slightly rustic look. Chines, moulines, matte/bright contrasts, lightweight compact fabrics, short slubs and nubs and irregular weaves are mentioned. Fiber SectorSandy MacLennan of East Central Studios is on the United Kingdoms trend committee and is Tencel®s consultant for fabric and color direction. For Tencel, he shows colors in five groups. He describes Duo as pale twins and sunny partners. Warm light brown is paired with creamy white. There are light and lighter blues, yellows, grays and cognacs. Voiles, batistes and matte shirtings are fabric suggestions.Icy white, cool blues and greens, and violet and brown are in MacLennans Cooled range. Iridescent fabrics and glossy surfaces are some of the fabrics shown.Dry-hand fabrics, compact weaves, linen textures and rustic looks are in a group called Arid. Sun-baked and faded olive, gold and brown are the colors here. Blackened browns and a bright denim blue are in a range called Sculpture. Tencel/linen blends, textured and fluid fabrics go in this group. Sunny reds, pinks and yellows are in the Joie de Vivre range. Its an energetic look, MacLennan said.
At DuPont, New York City-based Fashion Director Roseann Forde handles global color forecasting. For Spring, she shows a group of sophisticated neutrals that she refers to as tea stains. There is a range of cool blues that goes from cornflower and chambray to turquoise and a purple-cast indigo. Black and white are in this group.Serene Greens are inspired by plant life. They are both yellow- and blue-cast, and are accented with sunshine yellow and raspberry. Reds encompass true reds, pinks, oranges and grapes, with rust- and green-cast yellow accents. Browns, garnet, steel and polished silver-gray are in the darkest range.Innovative fabrics shown at DuPont were developed in Italy. Some contain new fiber variants that were introduced at Premiere Vision in October. Forde shows a double-faced knitted fabric in a blend of Tactel® prisma/Tencel and a lightweight, semi-lustered heather knitted of Tactel/Lycra® that has a crisp touch.T-400, a relaxed-stretch Lycra, is shown blended with cotton and with Tactel in a line of menswear fabrics. Many of the fabrics are knitted from air-jet-textured yarns. There are rustic weaves, pebble textures, slubbed and nubbed linen looks, puckers, hand-crocheted looks, lustered sheers, polished surfaces and metallic patterns.At Cotton Incorporated, New York City, Suzanne Shapiro, senior director, fashion marketing, said, There is a return to the basics, but with a difference. The new basics are more refined and have been reworked through unique constructions, use of color and finishes.Color-wise, Shapiro said brown is the foundation. She shows brown or brown-cast shades in several ranges. Hide, bronze and rum browns are in a range called Basic Sophistication. The Washed and Worn category shows faded shades of cowboy coffee, pine, pueblo and light bone.Shapiro notes that monochromatic color and tone-on-tone are key trends. She shows large groups of pale, tinted colors and neutrals.Fabric predictions at Cotton Incorporated show smooth, mercerized fabrics with a silk-like hand in either pure cotton or cotton/nylon. There are open leno weaves, seersuckers, gauzes, chambrays, twills, cords, slubbed knits, linen looks in cotton/linen blends, canvas, terry cloth and a lot of denim.Some of the denims Shapiro shows have novelty application treatment such as wax- or rubber-coated surfaces, splatter prints, metallic touches or embroidery. Others are washed, bleached, napped, double-faced or screen-printed. There is a lot of stretch denim.There will be about 750 fabric companies from 14 European countries showing and selling fabrics at Premiere Vision. Other exhibitors are fiber companies that use the salon as a platform to introduce new products and dispense trend and resource information.What will be the best sellers for Spring/Summer 2003 at Premiere Vision Stay tuned. February 2002